(3.5 stars)
Schlepping our way into the The Royal Botanic Garden, Sydney cursing the taxi rank being so far away, we stumbled into a wildflower meadow. Wandering through a winding path of brightly-coloured, waist-high blooms was enough to convince even the most committed of cynics, that gardens are actually nice places to visit.
With a much better attitude we entered Botanic House, celebrity chef, Luke Nguyen’s latest digs. Ringed by green, the open-air pavilion relies on the canopy’s natural cooling, aided by ceiling fans. With a full house of large tables, mostly women, all pushed onto $69/head set menus, it’s a license to print money, especially with all the wine being consumed. Nguyen helps it to pull up short of a tourist trap with a pleasant, please-all collection of dishes, kicking off with Hokkaido scallops served on the shell with roe pearls, green mango and Vietnamese herbs.
The 2016 Domaine Schlumberger Riesling ($78) is a reasonable match, extending through sesame rice crackers with edamame and avocado dip, and salt and pepper squid with lemon dressing. The fifteen buck crab and scallop dumpling upsell looked pretty in bright pink and ate nicely. Ka-ching!
Lively chilli made the kingfish carpaccio an easy favourite, dressed with native finger lime, miso and sesame oil. We notched down to the 2018 Kilikanoon Morts Block Riesling ($60) with the roast duck salad—sadly quite low on bird—while the table was populated with shared mains and rice. Caramelised market fish fillets—salmon on the day I dined—with tempura saltbush edged out crisp skin master stock chicken in chilli satay, mostly because the bird wasn’t cooked in the sauce, leaving it all a bit hollow in the middle for my liking.
Bring your beau because dessert—a creme caramel and a dry Vietnamese coffee-spiked three milk cake—is served one between two. No need to tip when they helpfully add a ten percent service surcharge onto your bill.